Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Curry for Leftover Lamb or Beef


The 1964 edition of Joy of Cooking was my very first cookbook, an engagement present from a college friend named Helen Joseph. She was from Cincinnati - small and fierce with a helmet of shiny dark hair. I'm sorry that over the years we lost touch, and I have tried to find her without success. She might be surprised to learn that giving me Joy (no pun intended) was the first step in my lifelong passion for cooking and collecting cookbooks. Thanks, Helen.

The latest revision of what is considered by many to be the quintessential American cookbook, Joy of Cooking, was done in 2019, but the 1964 edition is still my favorite.  (As an aside, I think the quintessential American Cookbook is the Twelfth Edition of Fannie Farmer, the last edition that has metric measurements.)


Curry for Leftover Lamb or Beef
Adapted from the 1964 Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker

This combination of meat and fruit and vegetables is a delicious way to use up leftover lamb or beef.

Serves 4

1 large onion, roughly chopped
2 - 3 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil (I use grapeseed oil)
2 cups cooked lamb or beef, cut into medium pieces
2 teaspoons flour, white rice is best
1½ cups hot chicken broth (you can use beef broth, but I always use chicken)
1 tablespoon curry powder (I use Sun Brand)
2 tart apples (Granny Smith are good), peeled and cut into wedges
1 tablespoon raisins (whatever color raisins you keep in the pantry)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ cup diced celery
Salt and pepper

Heat 2 tablespoons of butter or oil in a sauté pan or saucier. Add chopped onions, and cook until the onions are tender and just beginning to brown.

Add the curry powder, and cook for about 1 minute to release the flavor of the curry, being careful not to burn it. Add the apples and celery. You want them to stay crisp, so cook for about 2 minutes, no more than that. Using a slotted spoon, remove the ingredients from the pan to a bowl, leaving behind any juices that have accumulated.

Add the additional tablespoon of butter or oil, if necessary, to the pan, and brown the meat. Add the flour to the pan, sprinkling it over the meat. Stir to coat the meat thoroughly with the flour, and pour the hot broth in slowly, stirring the whole time.

When the sauce is smooth and boiling, add the apples, onions, and celery from the bowl along with the tablespoon of raisins to the pan. Stir in the lemon juice, and season carefully with salt. The amount of salt in the broth you use will make a difference. Pass the peppermill at the table.

This goes well with Basmati Rice Pilaf, buttered green peas, and Cucumber Salad.

Monday, January 29, 2007

Lamb Salad with Pine Nuts

This is very good and an unusual way to use leftover lamb.

Lamb Salad with Pine Nuts
Adapted from The Frog Commissary Cookbook by Steven Poses, Anne Clark, and Becky Roller

Serves 4

Sweet Onion Vinaigrette

⅓ cup olive oil
⅓ cup light vegetable oil (I use grapeseed)
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons pepper
½ teaspoon minced garlic
¼ cup wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
½ cup minced red onion

Whisk together all the ingredients and refrigerate. This can be done up to 2 days in advance.

Salad

4 quarts loosely packed mixed salad "greens," such as spinach, arugula, watercress, or radicchio
1 cup red bell peppers, cut into 1-inch matchsticks
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound leftover lamb, cut into bite-size strips about ¼-inch thick
¼ cup black raisins
¼ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted in a skillet (watch carefully so they don't burn)

Wash and dry the greens thoroughly. Tear them into pieces, and put in a large bowl. Add the red peppers.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet that will hold the lamb in one layer. Add the lamb, and cook for 1 minute. Stir, and turn the pieces of lamb around for another 15 to 30 seconds. Turn off the heat, and add the raisins, pine nuts, and dressing all at once. Stir for about 15 to 30 seconds to let the dressing heat through.

Pour the contents of the skillet over the greens and red peppers in the large bowl, toss, and serve immediately.

Roast Leg of Lamb


How easy can you get?

Roast Leg of Lamb
Adapted from From Julia Child's Kitchen by Julia Child

Serves 6 to 8

A 5 to 7 ½ pound leg of lamb
1/3 cup olive oil
1/3 cup soy sauce

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Remove as much of the fat from the lamb as you can. The reason this is important is that lamb fat has a low melting point and will start to congeal on the plate at room temperature, accounting for the strong taste that people associate with lamb. It's not the meat; it's the fat. This is different from beef fat, which has a high melting point and makes the meat stay juicy and succulent while you are eating it.

Rub the lamb with the oil and soy sauce.

Place the roast on a rack in a roasting pan. Put the pan in the middle of the preheated oven, and roast for 15 minutes. Baste with oil.

Turn the heat down to 350 degrees, and cook for another hour. Remove the roast from the hot pan, and let stand on a board for 10 minutes before carving.

Leftovers are wonderful made into a lamb salad or turned into a curry.

Orange Salad - For Bill

This is a good recipe to have on hand in the winter when navel oranges are in season and not much else is. It's bright and vibrant - a good change of pace to uninspiring winter salad greens.

I think Maldon Salt is the best salt to use in salads. If it's too coarse for your taste, you can crush it a little in your fingertips when you add it. This helps release the flavor.

Orange Salad
Adapted from The New York Times 60-Minute Gourmet by Pierre Franey and Craig Claiborne

Serves 2

2 large navel oranges
8 black olives, cut into pieces (use your favorite - I like Cerignola)
1/2 teaspoon finely minced garlic
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste (I don't always automatically use pepper in everything, but it's good in this recipe)
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Put the vinegar in a small bowl, add the salt, and let it steep while you proceed with the recipe.

In order to peel oranges so you remove all the pith, cut a slice off the top and a slice off the bottom with a knife. Then stand the orange up on one end, and cut down from top to bottom, curving around the shape of the orange. Go all the way around the orange until the skin and pith are completely removed. Do this carefully on a plate so you can catch any juice that might escape.

Cut the skinned orange into ¼-inch rounds, slicing parallel to the top and bottom slices you removed.

Put the orange slices on a platter and scatter the olives on top.

Whisk the minced garlic, oil, and pepper into the salt-infused vinegar. Pour over the oranges and olives. Sprinkle with parsley.

Sunday, January 28, 2007

Chicken Paprikash

Chicken "Paprikash" with a Dollop of Sour Cream
Chicken Paprikash with a Dollop of Sour Cream

It was only recently as I was perusing a cookbook I have had for a long time, Culinaria Hungary, that I realized there are two popular Hungarian chicken dishes made with sweet paprika and tomato - chicken pörkölt (pörkölt csirke) and chicken paprikash (paprikás csirke). They are basically the same recipe, except one has sour cream added to the sauce, and one does not. 

Over a long weekend upstate, Walter's mother Gizi taught me how to make her chicken paprikash. Her recipe was a little more tomatoey than others I had tried, I assume, because when she came to the United States in the late 1930's, she had to adapt her cooking based on what ingredients she could easily find. But she never compromised on the paprika, which was always from Hungary, not Hungarian-style paprika. I order mine from Kalustyan's

For years I have been making her recipe with one change. Instead of putting sour cream in the sauce, I serve it on the side to dollop over the chicken, which means I have unintentionally morphed from one recipe to the other. I do this because the sour cream can curdle if overheated, and most of the time I have leftovers and don't want to worry about reheating the sauce. And I still call it chicken paprikash because to me that's what it is.  

This is a good recipe for a dinner party. It can be easily increased; you are limited only by the size of your pan. I have been known to make two pans side-by-side.




Chicken Paprikash
From Gizi

Use a pan that will hold all the ingredients with the chicken in a single layer. Note that the chicken is not browned in this recipe; the pieces are slipped, naked, into the sauce.

I usually serve this with buttered nokedli (similar to spaetzle), blanched green beans tossed with olive oil and salt, and cucumber salad.
 
Serves 4

8 chicken thighs, skin and fat removed (I call them “naked.”)
About 3 neutral tablespoons oil (I use grapeseed.)
2 green bell peppers, cut into strips 
Lots of diced onion - depending on the size, I use 1 to 1-1/2 large onions
1 14-ounce can tomato sauce 
1 cup of broth, chicken or broth made from Better than Bouillon Vegetable base (I use this)
2 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
Salt to taste
Sour cream

Sauté the diced onion in the oil until it starts to turn gold; do not let it brown. Add the paprika, and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute, allowing the paprika to “bloom” but making sure it does not burn.

To avoid splattering, turn off the heat, and add the tomato sauce. To get all the tomato sauce out of the can, pour the broth into the tomato sauce can, swirl it around, and add it to the pot.

Turn the heat back on, bring the sauce just to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Taste for salt. You may not need any because enough salt may have been in the tomato sauce and/or broth.

Slip the “naked” chicken pieces into the pan, then strew the strips of green pepper over the top. Do not stir them in at this point. Put a cover on the pan, slightly askew, and simmer, stirring after the first 20 minutes to make sure nothing is sticking to the bottom of the pan. If you have the heat low enough, nothing will be. 

Check it again in about 10 minutes - at the 30-minute mark. If it isn't thickening, leave the lid completely off, turn the heat up a little bit, and keep your eye on it. (At the end you want the sauce to be thick enough to coat a spoon.) If it still isn't the consistency of heavy cream, turn the heat up a little more and continue to reduce it until it is. After a total of 45 minutes (not 45 minutes more), skim off any fat that may have accumulated.

At this point, I serve the chicken in its sauce as is with sour cream on the side. Then it is actually called Chicken Pörkölt, rather than Chicken Paprikash. However, for the more traditional chicken paprikash, turn off the heat, remove the chicken from the sauce, and stir in 2 large tablespoons of sour cream until incorporated and smooth. Put the chicken back in the pan, coat it with the sauce, and serve. I don’t do this because if there are leftovers, the sour cream will get grainy or curdle when you reheat. Also if you’re making it to serve later, you do not want to do this now. 



Gizi 1937

Orange Sponge Cake



This is one of my go-to desserts. It's a delicious and not overly sweet cake that I found on Chocolate & Zucchini, the lovely blog written by Clothilde Dusoulier.

Clothilde is French and bakes by weight, and I recommend that when you make this cake, you weigh the ingredients too. Just to see if it makes a difference, if you have a scale, measure one cup flour by the scoop-and-level method without compressing the flour, then weigh it and see if it weighs the same 120 grams called for in the directions.

You can eat this cake plain, but my favorite way is with strawberries or raspberries macerated for a short time (30 minutes is fine) with a little sugar and topped with cream softly whipped and lightly flavored with Mathilde Orange Liqueur X.O.  It is softly orange with a slight somewhat caramel flavor, making it good to use as an ingredient and lovely to drink on its own.  You can serve a thimbleful in beautiful small glasses, which makes it quite festive, especially at Christmastime when I like the scent of oranges in the air.

Clothilde calls this cake Le Piège Gateau.

Orange Sponge Cake
Adapted from Chocolate & Zucchini

Although this will keep, I like it best on the day that it's made.

1 large pat butter
1 heaping tablespoon sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round cake pan generously with the butter, then coat the pan with a heaping tablespoon of sugar.

For the cake:

120 grams (½ cup plus 1 tablespoon) unsalted butter, softened (really, really softened but definitely not melted)
120 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) sugar
2 large eggs
1 medium organic orange, scrubbed
½ cup of juice from the orange - If there isn't enough from one one orange, juice another one.
120 grams (1 cup) flour
1 tablespoon baking powder (do not decrease this amount, but don't increase it either)
A generous pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cream the butter with the sugar,  then add the eggs one by one, and mix after the addition of each egg until completely combined.

Without going into the pith, grate the zest from the entire orange, and add to the bowl.  This is easy if you use the original Microplane grater; one pass over the orange will do it.  Juice the orange, and add ½ cup of juice to the batter.  If you don't have ½ cup of juice from this orange, juice another one or two until you have ½ cup of juice.  Mix until smooth.

Put the flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.  Stir with a fork to mix together.  Sift this mixture onto a piece of aluminum foil, and then pick up the foil and fold it into a spout so you can easily pour  it into the mixing bowl.  Whist this mixture into the batter until just combined, and pour into the prepared 9-inch cake pan.

Bake in the preheated oven for 20 minutes or until the cake is golden brown and starts to pull away from the sides of the pan.  With my oven 20 minutes is the right amount of time.

Let the cake cool on a rack for ten minutes - but no more than this or the caramel crust the sugar has made which is one of the delights of this cake, will harden and stick to the pan.  Turn onto a serving plate, and let cool completely before serving.

Print recipe

Extra Rich Brownies

These are very delicious - what I call my adult brownies. They are loaded with nuts, both ground almonds and lots of walnuts. They are best served cold.

Extra Rich Brownies
Adapted from La Maison du Chocolat: Transcendent Desserts by the Legendary Chocolatier Robert Linxe

Makes about 20 small brownies

2-1/2 cups walnut pieces
1/2 pound highest quality bittersweet chocolate
7-1/2 ounces unsalted butter
4 eggs
1/4 cup ground almonds
Scant 1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 9 x9-inch baking pan, and dust the pan with cocoa powder.

Coarsely chop the walnuts. Break the chocolate into pieces, and place the pieces in the top of a double boiler to melt. Do not let the bottom of the double boiler hit the water in the bottom. Add the butter, and stir to blend as the butter melts. Alternatively, do this step in a microwave, but be cautious about overheating it. Once melted set the chocolate aside, away from any heat.

Combine the eggs, ground almonds, and sugar in a separate bowl. Add to the melted chocolate mixture, and stir to blend. Then put the baking soda and flour into yet another bowl, and stir with a fork to combine. Sift this into the chocolate mixture, and blend. Add the walnut pieces, and stir again.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, and bake for 20-25 minutes. Remove from the oven, let stand for 5 minutes, then unmold into a cooling rack. Cool completely, then cut into 2-inch squares. Refrigerate until serving.

Friday, January 26, 2007

Raised Waffles

Adapted from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham



This recipe is a good reason to go out and get a waffle iron if you don’t already have one. Marion Cunningham discovered the recipe when she was doing research for what would become the twelfth edition of The Fanny Farmer Cookbook, my favorite basic cookbook.

The mixing is done the night before, and all you have to do in the morning is add a couple of eggs and some baking soda before the batter is ready to cook. These waffles are very crisp on the outside and delicate on the inside. They are absolutely scrumptious.

I have made these in a regular waffle iron, which Kim Severson of The New York Times recommends you use for this recipe, and I have made them using a Belgian-style waffle maker.  I prefer these waffles made Belgian-style, but that's probably because it's the first way I made them.




I recently ate lunch at a new restaurant near my office in Chelsea. It's called Trestle, and the chef is Swiss. The space is rather spare and beautiful, and the cutlery and glasses are lovely. So far, the food and wine and beer I have had there have all been excellent. Many times - because it is so good - I have eaten a dish of creamed chicken in puff pastry cases. I think a creamed chicken like that one, which has mushrooms and butternut squash in it, would taste good served on top of these waffles for dinner. If I try it, and it turns out to be good, I'll post the recipe.

Raised Waffles
Adapted from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham

Makes about 8 waffles

1/2 cup warm water
1 package dry yeast (1/4 ounce or 7 grams)
2 cups milk, warmed
½ cup (1 stick) butter, melted
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour

Added later:
2 eggs
¼ teaspoon baking soda

The batter will double its original volume so use a mixing bowl that will accommodate its doubling.

Put the warm water in the bowl. Sprinkle in the yeast, and let stand for 5 minutes to dissolve.

Add the warmed (not hot) milk, melted butter, salt, sugar, and flour to the yeast/water mixture, and beat until smooth and blended.  

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand overnight at room temperature.

Just before cooking the waffles, beat in the eggs. Add the baking soda, and stir until well mixed.     Don't be alarmed; the batter will be very thin; that's okay.

Pour about to 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup batter into a very hot waffle iron. (This will, of course, depend on your waffle maker. I use one with large indentations - the kind for Belgian waffles. It makes four waffles and will hold almost a full cup of batter. You will get the hang of it after a few waffles.) Bake the waffles until they are golden and crisp. Serve immediately.

If I am serving these for breakfast, I top with hot maple syrup. I don't add any additional butter because I think they are rich enough without it.

Print recipe.

Thursday, January 25, 2007

Penne with Balsamic Vinegar and Tomatoes

This recipe is from Marcella's Italian Kitchen. It's not Marcella Hazan's most well-known book, but it is excellent, one of my favorites, and a good addition to your collection.

I'm not fond of balsamic vinegar in salad dressing, but used as a flavor enhancer, as it is here, it can add tremendous, almost elusive, depths of flavor. This dish is really different and wonderful.

If you happen to have very high quality, aged balsamic vinegar, now is the time to use it. I got this vinegar




from DiPalo's at 200 Grand Street, between Mulberry and Mott, a treasure trove of Italian food. If you live in NYC or are visiting, this is definitely worth a visit. If you can't get there, check out their website, DiPalo Selects.



Marie DiPalo with balsamic vinegar and farro

Penne with Balsamic Vinegar and Tomatoes

Adapted from Marcella's Italian Kitchen by Marcella Hazan

Serves 4

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 or 4 cloves garlic, sliced very thin
2 springs fresh rosemary, about 4 to 6 inches long, or 2-1/2 teaspoons dried leaves, chopped
2 14-ounce cans of Italian peeled plum tomatoes or 1 cup of plain homemade tomato sauce
Salt
Black pepper
1 pound penne, cooked in boiling, salted water until very firm to the bite
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Put 2 cups of whole tomatoes, exclusive of their juice, in a bowl. Using your hands, break up the tomatoes. Some juice will come out of the tomatoes. You want to use that juice (as opposed to the juice left behind in the can).

Put the olive oil and garlic into a saute pan or saucier large enough to hold the sauce and the pound of cooked penne. If you're using fresh rosemary, add it now.

Turn the heat under the pan to medium. As soon as the garlic begins to sizzle, add the ingredients from the bowl of tomatoes, and salt to taste. If you are using dried rosemary, which you have chopped, add it now.

Cook the sauce until the oil separates from the tomatoes. This usually takes between 10 and 15 minutes, depending on the liquidity of the tomatoes you start with. Turn off the heat.

While you are making the sauce, you want to cook the penne in lots of boiling salted water timing it so it is al dente - very firm to the bite - at the same time the sauce is done. Drain the penne, and transfer it immediately to the pan containing the sauce.

Turn the heat back on to very low, and toss the pasta with the sauce for about 1 minute.

Turn off the heat again, and make a well in the middle of the pasta. Pour the vinegar into the well, draw the pasta through the sauce, and mix for a few seconds until it's well coated. Add some black pepper and mix again.

Serve at once.

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Crustless Zucchini Quiche


Crustless Zucchini Quiche
Adapted from Food Processor Cookery by Irene Chalmers

¼ cup parsley, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound small zucchini, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
¾ cup fresh breadcrumbs (This means not dried breadcrumbs; I blitz whatever bread I am using in a food processor.)
¾ cup grated Swiss or Gruyere cheese (I grate this on a box grater.)
¾ cup half and half or cream
2 eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese (I grate this with a Microplane.)

Heat the olive oil, and cook the zucchini over moderately high heat until lightly browned. Add the garlic and parsley, and cook until the garlic just begins to color. Do not let the garlic brown. Turn off the heat, and season the zucchini with salt.

Remove the zucchini from the pan with a slotted spoon, and place it in a baking dish with the breadcrumbs and Swiss or Gruyere cheese.

Combine the half and half or cream with the eggs, and pour into the baking dish. Sprinkle the surface with Parmesan cheese, and bake in a preheated 400-degree oven for 25 minutes.

Mozzarella in Carozza

Sometimes Nanny used to make this for me on Saturday mornings for breakfast. Pepperidge Farm Sandwich Bread works okay, but now that there are so many fabulous artisanal breads available, try any bread you like.

Whenever I have to coat anything with egg, I strain the beaten egg




to make it smooth.




Mozzarella in Carozza

Adapted from The New York Times Cookbook (1961 edition) by Craig Claiborne

Serves 4

8 slices white bread (I usually use Pepperidge Farm Sandwich White)
Flour
4 slices mozzarella, ¼-inch thick
2 eggs, beaten and put through a strainer to make smooth
Oil
Salt

Remove crusts from the bread, but skip this step if you like.

Now this is something I don't normally do - follow a step in a recipe that I don't understand at all. But I have made this recipe for a million years and have always done it this way. Flour the mozzarella lightly (I use Wondra). Place each slice of cheese between 2 slices of bread.

Put oil in a skillet, and heat. (I have always used a light vegetable oil, which now for me would be grapeseed. I imagine in Italy olive oil is used in this dish.)

Dip the sandwiches in the beaten, strained eggs, and fry in the hot oil, turning once, until the bread turns pale gold, and the cheese starts to ooze. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and eat hot.

Carrot Vichyssoise


On my recommendation in 1974 Bill got Polly a copy of A Treasury of Great Recipes - before I had even met her - and this began many years of cooking and eating together in Atlanta, Mobile, Washington, and New York.

This is elegant and easy. The original recipe calls for chicken or vegetable stock. I always use chicken, but vegetable stock would make it a vegetarian (not vegan) dish.

It's so rich that it would be appropriate to serve it in demitasse cups as a tiny starter.

Carrot Vichyssoise
Adapted from A Treasury of Great Recipes by Mary and Vincent Price

Serves 4 to 6

2 cups peeled and diced baking potatoes
1-1/4 cup sliced carrots
1 leek white part only, sliced*
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
Salt
Shredded raw carrot or minced fresh chives for garnish

Put the potatoes, carrots, leek, and chicken broth into a large saucepan. Heat until the contents of the pan come just to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer until the vegetables are tender - about 25 minutes . Remove the pan from the heat, and let cool for 15 minutes.

Puree the contents of the saucepan in a food processor or blender. If you use a blender, do this step in two batches, half each time, so the soup doesn’t erupt out of the blender. I have never used a hand-held stick blender for this myself, but if it purees perfectly, it could work here.

Refrigerate in a covered bowl until cold. You can hold the soup at this point for one to two days.

Just before serving, stir in the heavy cream, and add salt to taste. Serve icy cold with a topping of shredded raw carrot or minced fresh chives.

*You need to thoroughly clean the leek. First, wash the outside of the leek. Then slice off the green part. Cut the white part of the leek in half all the way down to the root, but don't cut all the way through the root. Spread the leek apart, and clean both halves under running water to remove any accumulated dirt. Once washed, slice off the root end, and cut the two halves of the leek across into half moons.

Tuesday, January 23, 2007

Pesto Torta

Adapted from Above and Beyond Parsley: Food for the Senses by the Junior League of Kansas City, Missouri



I once made this for one of Walter's birthday parties, and Marsha took one bite, thought for a second, and looked at me and said, "Cream cheese AND butter?" So I guess you can imagine how rich this is.

This recipe can be cut in half.  It can also be frozen, so instead of making one large torta, you can make two and freeze one.

Pesto Torta
Adapted from Above and Beyond Parsley: Food for the Senses by the Junior League of KCMO

Cream Cheese and Butter

2 8-ounce packages cream cheese, room temperature
1 pound unsalted butter, room temperature

Beat softened cream cheese and softened butter with a spoon until smooth.

Pesto

¼ cup pine nuts
2 cloves garlic
1 cup fresh spinach, tightly packed
1 cup fresh basil, tightly packed
½ cup fresh parsley
½ teaspoon salt or less
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

Sun dried tomatoes for decoration (optional)

Beat softened cream cheese and softened butter with a spoon until smooth.

Roast the pine nuts at 325°F in a 325 degree oven, monitoring carefully to make sure they don't burn. Alternatively, toast the pine nuts in a small skillet on top of the stove, stirring and watching carefully to prevent burning. Puree the toasted pine nuts, garlic, spinach, basil, parsley, and salt in a food processor. Add the olive oil and blend. Add the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and 3 tablespoons of butter, being careful not to over blend.

Torta

Cut an 18-inch square of cheesecloth; moisten with water, wring dry and as smoothly as possible line a 6-cup plain or charlotte mold (I once used a flowerpot-shaped glass mold, and it was perfect) with the cheesecloth. Drape the excess cheesecloth outward over the rim of the mold. (Obviously, If you are cutting the recipe in half and/or making two, appropriately change the size of the dish you are using for the mold.) 

Take two pieces of wax paper or aluminum foil. On one, make six mounds of the cream cheese/butter mixture; on the other one, make five mounds of the pesto.

Use two different spatulas for the next step so the cream cheese/butter mixture has its own spatula, and the pesto has its own spatula. You are going to layer the two different ingredients - the cream cheese/butter mixture and the pesto.

Start by making an even layer with one of the cheese mounds in the bottom of the mold, extending it evenly to the sides of the mold. Cover with one of the pesto mounds, and spread the pesto in an even layer. Repeat layering, making each layer even, and extending each layer to the sides of the mold.  If your mold is too wide to make this many layers, that's fine, but always finish with a cheese layer.

Fold the hanging ends of the cheesecloth inward over the torta, and press lightly to tamp the ingredients down a little. Chill for several hours or overnight.

A half hour before serving gently pull the torta out of the mold, but do not remove the cheesecloth yet, and do not turn it right side up. Open the folds of the cheesecloth to expose the bottom of the torta, put a serving dish over the exposed bottom of the torta, turn it over so the serving dish is in the right position, and gently remove the cheesecloth. If you like, decorate the top of the torta with sun-dried tomatoes spread out in a fan shape. This step is optional.

Serve the torta with crackers of your choice (I used to use Carr's Traditional Water Crackers, which are excellent, but there are so many crackers now, choose your favorite) and/or thin slices of baguette.

To store, remove the cheesecloth, wrap the torta air-tight with plastic wrap.  This can be refrigerated for up to five days. The torta can also be frozen.

Sweet Potato Puree - For Bill

Adapted from Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook by Alfred Portale

Serves 4





This is really, really good and really, really easy. You can even make it ahead of time and heat it up in the microwave just before serving. You don't even need a mixer to mash the sweet potatoes, they are so soft that a hand masher works. This will become one of your favorite and most useful recipes because it goes with so many dishes, and you can easily increase the amount you make.

4 large sweet potatoes (2 pounds total), a thin slice cut from one end of each potato (to avoid exploding in the oven)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon maple syrup (I like Grade A Dark Amber or even Grade B because they are dark and flavorful)
Coarse salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the sweet potatoes until tender when pierced with a cake tester or fork. This will take about 1 hour.

When done, remove the potatoes from the oven, slit them open.

If you are going to serve them quickly, scoop the flesh into a medium saucepan. Add the butter and maple syrup. Mash or stir (because they should be very soft) the potatoes over very low heat until they are smooth, and the butter is incorporated, about 1 minute. Season with salt.

You can keep the potatoes warm for a little while placing the saucepan in a skillet of simmering water over low heat.

If preparing ahead of time, place the flesh in a bowl. Add the butter and maple syrup. Mash or stir the potatoes until the butter is incorporated, and the texture is the way you like it. Cover and set aside.

When ready to heat, put a plate on top of the bowl (because you do not want to heat plastic wrap), and heat for 3 minutes in microwave. Stir again, and serve.

Print recipe.

Pasta Shells with Sausage

Adapted from Marcella's Italian Kitchen by Marcella Hazan


Marcella recommends shell shaped pasta here, and she's right about this - the bits of sausage nestle inside the shells perfectly. I use the shell shape of Faella pasta called Tofe, and I get it online from Gustiamo.

The first time I ever ate this, Tracey and I cooked dinner together at what was then her new house. We sat in her kitchen, which was surrounded by windows on three sides, and it was like sitting in a little treehouse. When we started to eat this pasta , we literally did not say one word. It was so good we were speechless!

Sausage Removed from Casing and Flattened

Pasta Shells with Sausage

½ pound mild pork sausage 
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
⅔ cup canned Italian peeled plum tomatoes, cut coarse, with their juice
¼ cup or a little less of heavy cream
Salt
Black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Enough for 1 pound of pasta shells
Freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano

If the sausage is in a casing, squeeze it out onto a plate. Break the sausage meat into pieces about the size of a walnut and flatten them a little.

Heat a sauté pan or saucier, and two tablespoons of olive oil. Let the oil get hot, and add the nuggets of sausage meat. (If you add the sausage to oil that is already hot, it won't stick.)

After the sausage meat is lightly browned, add the garlic, and cook briefly - for about 30 seconds. You want the garlic to color a little but not brown. Add the tomatoes, stir, and cook at a gentle simmer.

After about 20 minutes, when the fat separates from the other juices and floats free, add the cream, and turn up the heat. If you don't like to use cream, you can add just a tiny amount or leave it out, but a tiny amount does improve the dish. Cook for 1 or 2 minutes, stirring frequently until the cream is incorporated and reduced. Add salt. Turn off the heat, and stir in the chopped parsley.

While the sauce is simmering, cook the pasta to the al dente stage. Drain the pasta, add it to the pan the sauce is in, and toss with the sauce. Turn off the heat, and add the freshly grated cheese; toss again, and serve immediately. Let everyone add freshly ground pepper to taste at table, if desired.

Grilled Shrimp Skewers





Peggy, who is from Charleston, South Carolina, is the master of all shrimp dishes.  She introduced me to this dish, which I instantly added to my repertoire. I think you will too. These are delicious.

Grilled Shrimp Skewers


Serves 6

2 pounds medium or large shrimp, unshelled weight
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (estimate)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil (estimate)
⅔ cup fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs (estimate)
½ teaspoon garlic chopped very fine
2 teaspoons parsley chopped very fine
Sea salt and pepper
Lemon wedges (optional)

Shell the shrimp. I never remove the vein but prefer to leave the shrimp whole, but you can certainly devein them if you prefer. Put the shrimp in a bowl, and add as much oil and as many breadcrumbs as you need to to coat the shrimp lightly but evenly all over. Marcella specifies that you use olive oil and vegetable oil in equal parts; and you might want to try that because she probably has a reason. However, sometimes I only use olive oil and just glug it in until it feels right - enough so when you add the breadcrumbs, they coat the shrimp evenly.

Add the chopped garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper.  Toss thoroughly to coat the shrimp well. It's best if you let them to steep in their coating for 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature, but I have cooked them right away with good results.

Don't be tempted to add lemon juice to the marinade; it will start to cook the shrimp.

I cook these on a preheated electric grill that is part of my stove. If you are going to cook them over charcoal, light the charcoal in time for it to form white ash before cooking. If you are going to cook them on a gas grill, preheat it first.

Skewer the shrimp tightly, curling one end of each shrimp inward so that the skewer goes through the shrimp in three places. This prevents the shrimp from spinning around as you turn the skewer over.

Cook the shrimp close to the source of heat until they have a thin, golden crust. I cook these longer than you might think - usually for a total of 7 minutes.  Even though I don't like my shrimp overcooked - who does? - I have found that undercooking these takes away from the flavor.

Serve piping hot, optionally with lemon wedges.

Print recipe.


Monday, January 22, 2007

Fried Red Peppers - For Bill

Adapted from Cucina Fresca by Viana LaPlace and Evan Kleiman

Serves 4


I like this cookbook so much I have two copies - one in the city and one in the country. My original copy is dog-eared and falling apart.



This is a miracle recipe.
You will be amazed that so simple a preparation yields such tasty results. The longer the peppers cook without becoming dark brown or burned at the edges, the sweeter they will be.

Cucina Fresca
Make them while you're hanging around the kitchen so you can afford to be patient and not hurry this up. If you decide to make these peppers in advance, remember to serve them at room temperature – not cold.

I often serve this as a starter on a plate with Nanny's Stuffed Mushrooms and Green Bean Salad.  It’s also good served on top of asparagus vinaigrette. Margaret likes it with anchovies.



Fried Red Peppers
Adapted from Cucina Fresca by Viana LaPlace and Evan Kleiman

4 to 6 red bell peppers
Olive oil

Cut the tops and bottoms off from the peppers. Remove the seeds and the white ribs inside. Cut the peppers into 1/2 inch vertical slices.

Cover the bottom of a skillet or saucier with a light coating of olive oil, and turn the heat to medium. Add the sliced peppers. Stir. When the peppers get hot, turn the heat down to moderate, and cook the peppers s-l-o-w-l-y until soft with a few browned edges.

When done, put the peppers with their oil into a bowl or onto a platter. Cool to room temperature.




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Stuffed Mushrooms - For Bill

Make as many as you want

These are very, very good. When my mother told me this was how Nanny made them, I was sure she was wrong. She wasn't.

Nanny's Stuffed Mushrooms


Large cultivated mushrooms - just plain old white mushrooms  (If you find the really large ones that are packaged specifically for stuffing, get them.)
Plain dry breadcrumbs (not seasoned)
Salt and pepper
Pinch of dried oregano
Olive oil

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove stems from mushrooms. Coarsely chop stems and place in a bowl with breadcrumbs.  The amount of breadcrumbs is quite scant; use about a quarter of a cup for a large package of mushrooms. Add a small amount of salt and pepper to taste and a little dried oregano, crushing it with your fingers as you add it.

Do not add any liquid ingredients.  Do not cook stuffing.

Put mushroom caps open end up in a baking pan. Fill indentations with stuffing mixture, which is totally dry and will fall out a little. Can be prepared in advance to this point.

Drizzle (this means not a lot) with olive oil.  The mushrooms do not have to be coated with olive oil.  Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, sizzling and slightly brown. The amount of time will depend on how large the mushrooms are.

The cook gets to eat all the little crunchy parts in the bottom of the pan.

Sunday, January 21, 2007

Chicken & Pear Salad

Adapted from The Silver Palate Cookbook by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins

Serves 4 to 6

The original recipe actually calls for duck,* but I always use chicken. It's a good dish to eat in the summer, especially in the country when we're sitting around the picnic table. I serve a plate of sliced mangoes strewn with blueberries with this salad.

2 chickens roasted and cooled
3 cups wild rice cooked (recipe follows)
1 cup chopped celery
4 scallions, cleaned and cut diagonally into ½-inch pieces
Grated zest of 1 organic orange
Salt
3 ripe but firm eating pears
1 cup lemon juice
½ to 1 cup blueberries
Mango Chutney Dressing (recipe follows)

Roast the chickens the way you usually do, making sure the chicken is cooked all the way through, because who doesn't hate pink chicken. But remember, for this dish it doesn't matter if the skin is as crispy and delicious as you normally like, so you don't have to blast your kitchen with a high-heat roasting method if you don't want to. Also, you don't want to be tempted to eat the chicken as soon as you pull it out of the oven so restrain yourself. Please. I know some of you will want to poach chicken breasts, and they would well here, but the dark meat is so delicious in this recipe, I, personally, would never do that. Cool the chickens completely before proceeding, so, obviously, you can do this step a day in advance, refrigerating the chicken once it cools down.

Toss the cooked wild rice in a mixing bowl with the celery, scallions, and orange zest. Add salt to taste and toss again. Put this mixture on a large platter. Shred the cooked chicken into pieces and salt lightly, tossing it with your fingers to disperse the salt. Strew the chicken over the wild rice mixture on the platter.

If the skin of the pears seems too thick or spotty, peel the pears. Otherwise leave the skin on. Quarter, core, and slice the pears thinly. Put the lemon juice into a bowl, and drop the pear slices into that bowl as you go along, and toss to coat the slices with the pear juice. This will prevent the fruit from begoming brown. Don't do this ahead of time - just do it when you're done with everything else and about to serve the salad, pear by pear until all three pears have been sliced and tossed with lemon juice.

Arrange pear slices in a decorative fan across the top of the duck salad, and serve immediately.

Either pour Mango Chutney Dressing over the top, or serve in a bowl on the side.

*The recipe calls for 2 ducklings, not chickens, cooked medium-rare, so you might want to do ducklings. The recipe says to roast the ducklings at 450 degrees for 15 minutes and at 375 degrees for another 20 to 30 minutes, and, of course, to cook longer if you prefer ducks well done.

Wild Rice

I personally don't find much difference in the taste or texture of cultivated wild rice or real "wild" rice, so use what you prefer.

3 cups light-bodied chicken broth
1 cup wild rice (if really "wild," rinse and pick over for foreign particles)

Bring the chicken broth to a boil in a saucepan. Gradually stir in the wild rice. Cover the pan, and simmer until the grain of the rice is tender and moist.  This will take 40 - 50 minutes. All of the broth might not have been absorbed.  See if the rice needs salt, but season carefully because the amount needed, if any, will depend on how much salt was in your chicken broth.

Mango Chutney Dressing

Makes 3 cups

1 whole egg
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (I prefer Edmond Fallot Dijon Mustard)
¼ cup blueberry vinegar*
⅓ cup mango chutney
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Salt
2 cups light vegetable oil

Combine whole egg, egg yolks, mustard, vinegar, chutney, and soy sauce in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Season to taste with salt, and process for 1 minute.

With the motor running, dribble the oil in in a slow, steady stream. When all oil has been incorporated, shut off motor, scrape down sides of processor bowl, taste, and correct for salt.

Transfer dressing to storage container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

*I have actually always used the blueberry vinegar called for in the recipe, hence my addition of blueberries to the plate of mangoes. However, I think you can mess around with what kind of vinegar you use, and if you change this, leave the blueberries in or out as you choose. They are, however, very pretty. But if you try it with raspberry vinegar, which is more readily available than blueberry, you could strew the mangoes with raspberries, and that would be very pretty too.

Print recipe

Open-Face Ice Cream Sandwich

Adapted from Desserts and Sweet Snacks – Rustic Italian Style by Viana La Place

Serves 1

"The combination of bread and ice cream may sound strange, but it is a time-honored custom in Italy" where people eat gelato on brioche for breakfast in the summer. How good is that? Definitely try this; you will be surprised at how delicious it is.

Lemon marmalade
1 slice firm crusty bread
Vanilla ice cream

Spread lemon marmalade, including bits of peel, thinly on the untoasted bread. Then spread your own or the best quality ice cream you can find generously over the marmalade. Eat immediately.

Cauliflower Gratin

Adapted from More Vegetables, Please by Janet Fletcher

Serves 4

If you think people don't like cauliflower, make this. You'll be surprised at how fast it disappears.
¼ cup olive oil
1 medium cauliflower
Salt and pepper
2 cups soft fresh breadcrumbs
¾ cup grated parmigiano-reggiano and/or pecorino-romano cheese
2 tablespoons minced parsley

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.


Cut the cauliflower florets off of the thick stem, leaving the florets in large pieces. Steam the florets over simmering water for 3 minutes. Essentially, you want to just moisten them, not really cook them because you are going to finish them in the oven. Cut the large steamed florets into smaller florets.


Liberally oil a baking dish with low sides that is just large enough to hold the cauliflower florets in one flat layer with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Arrange the cauliflower florets in one layer in the baking dish. Season with salt and pepper.

Combine the breadcrumbs with the cheese, and parsley. With your hands pat the mixture on the cauliflower, pressing it down. Drizzle the top with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil, and bake until well browned and crusty, about 30 minutes.

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Saturday, January 20, 2007

Spaghettini Aglio e Olio - For Bill

Adapted from The Classic Pasta Cookbook by Giuliano Hazan

Serves 4

Being able to whip up this recipe any time is a good reason to always have a bunch of parsley standing in water in a glass (like a bouquet of flowers) in the refrigerator at all times, as well as really fresh garlic. Sometimes I serve this with an egg fried in olive oil, with the white cooked and the yolk runny, on top of each serving. It's delicious to cut up the egg and mix it in with the pasta. I often use penne instead of spaghettini.

Spaghettini Aglio e Olio
Adapted from The Classic Pasta Cookbook by Guiliano Hazan

1 pound dried, store-bought pasta, spaghettini (thin spaghetti) or penne
1/4 to 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt

For one pound of pasta, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and all the pasta, stirring until the pasta is submerged.

Put the olive oil and the garlic in a saucier or sauté pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the garlic begins to change color (and this means light gold, not brown), add the parsley, red pepper flakes, and some crunchy Maldon Salt. Stir well, and remove from the heat immediatly.

When the pasta is cooked al dente, return the pan with the sauce in it to a low heat, drain the pasta, and add it to the skillet quickly so that a little of the water is still adhering to the strands. Toss until the pasta is well coated with the sauce, correct for salt and spiciness, and serve at once.

Guiliano Hazan's Tomato & Onion Sauce

Adapted from Every Night Italian by Giuliano Hazan

I like this cookbook, with its simple recipes, very much. I use the recipe for homemade sausage, which I do not put in casings. This adaptation of his mother Marcella's famous Tomato and Onion Sauce is better than the sum of its parts. As odd as this sounds, it is especially good served on a plate with the Creamed Lima Beans. If you try it, I think you will make the combination often. The difference between this recipe and Marcella's Miracle Sauce is that here her son thinly slices the onion instead of cutting it in half. A simple difference, yes, but it does change the dish, so you will probably want both in your repertoire.

Enough for 1 pound pasta (I like this with spaghetti or rigatoni.)
1 cup very thin yellow onion slices (Russ Parsons says do not cook with sweet onions, only eat them raw.)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
A 400g can of Italian whole peeled tomatoes, with their juice, crushed with your hands
Salt
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (can also mix half and half with Pecorino Romano if you like its sharpness)
Freshly ground black pepper, optional

Put the onion and butter in a sauté pan or saucier, and place it over medium-low heat. Sauté the onion very s l o w l y until it turns a light caramel color. This will take about 10 to 12 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, and season lightly with salt keeping in mind that you will add cheese at the end. Raise the heat a little so that the tomatoes cook at a moderate simmer. Cook the tomatoes until the butter separates from the sauce, about 20 minutes.

Cook the pasta, completely submerged, in lots of salted boiled water - at least 6 quarts for a pound - until it is al dente. Drain the pasta, and immediately toss it with the sauce. Mix in the grated cheese and optionally season with black pepper. Serve at once.

Cacik (Turkish Cucumber Salad)

Adapted from Forever Summer by Nigella Lawson.

We haven't discussed Nigella yet. Nigella is "my girl." I love her recipes; I love her book How to Eat; I love her sense of decadence and fun about food; I love that she doesn't take herself too seriously. If she invited me to come to her house to hang out, I would be there in a split second.
This is a Turkish cucumber salad, which according to Nigella is pronounced "jajek." Make it close to the time you want to serve it otherwise the cucumbers can get watery, and the garlic can get too strong. If you make it a little ahead of time, add the garlic and olive oil just before serving.

Mince the garlic by hand, or use a Microplane grater, whichever you prefer. It's delicious made with Greek full fat yogurt, which is what I always use, but I imagine if the fat police are on your trail, Siggi's Skyr Plain Yogurt would be good too. It'sreally thick and has no fat.




This is expecially good served with grilled or roast lamb, pork, or chicken.

1 small container thick, plain yogurt
1 large cucumber or 3 pickling size
1 teaspoon dried mint
Salt to taste
Leaves from a few sprigs of fresh mint, chopped (plus a few extra for garnish, optional)
1 - 2 cloves garlic, depending on size and intensity
Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle over

Put the yogurt in a bowl. Peel the cucumber(s), and cut it (them) in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds with a pointy spoon, and dice the cucumber flesh. Add it to the yogurt, and mix. Stir in the dried mint, salt to taste, and the chopped fresh mint. Add the garlic, and mix it in. Drizzle the top lightly with olive oil. Add some extra mint leaves for garnish if you like.

Coronation Chicken

Adapted from Great British Cooking by Jane Garmey

Serves 4 to 6

Now that we've had a British invasion of cooks and chefs (Nigella, Nigel, Jamie, Delia to name a few), I think we can pretty much agree that great British cooking is not an oxymoron. This book, however, has recipes for standard British fare and might not appeal to everyone. But this dish will.

This recipe for what is really a cold, curried chicken was invented in honor of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation in 1953. The coronation ceremony at Westminster Abbey was extremely long, and at one point during the proceedings, the Queen and her ladies-in-waiting are reputed to have slipped behind the scenes and fortified themselves with a quick helping of Coronation Chicken.


Coronation Chicken
Adapted from Great British Cooking by Jane Garmey

1 cooked chicken (about three pounds of cooked chicken), chilled
1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon curry powder
½ cup chicken stock
2 teaspoons tomato puree (you could probably use ketchup instead, because 2 teaspoons of tomato puree might be kind of a pain, I never have)
Juice of half a lemon
2 tablespoons mango chutney
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup heavy cream, whipped

Shred the chicken into bite-sized (but not tiny) pieces, and set aside.

Cook the onion in the oil in a saucepan over low heat until it is soft and trranslucent but not brown. Add the curry powder to the onion, and cook for a few minutes. Add the stock, tomato puree, lemon juice, and chutney to the pan. Stir until the mixture comes to a boil, simmer for 5 minutes, cool a little, and puree in blender or food processor. Put this mixture into a bowl. When completely cool, add the mayonnaise and whipped cream and mix in. Chill this sauce.

Place the chicken pieces on a serving dish and spoon the sauce over the chicken.

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Friday, January 19, 2007

Creamed Lima Beans - For Bill

Serves 4




I have a cousin, Bill, who lives in a small town in Illi
nois where I, a New York City kid, got to go for my childhood summers. It’s near the Mississippi, which really is mighty, and we spent many happy and carefree hours on that amazing river. On Sunday mornings we would head out early with a large basket filled with the fried chicken and coleslaw Aunt Rita made on Saturday night. My cousins Bill and Barbara and I would spend the day boating and swimming and picnicking. Pepsi, not Coke, was the drink of choice, and we could eat a bag of the always-forbidden-in-my-house potato chips.

The fields in the area are rolling and from the plane look like a patchwork quilt. The sky is big. The earth is black and rich and fragrant. There ar
e family-owned pig farms in the area, and the air near those farms is strong and pungent, in a pleasing way. Fried pork chop sandwiches are a regional specialty. The street is called Main, and the Post Office still had a WPA mural painted during the Franklin Roosevelt administration the last time I was there.

I hope it still is.

It is the Midwest of Carl Sandburg and Mark Twain and Abraham Li
ncoln.

My cousin Bill loves good food. He grew up eating fabulous
meals at home because Aunt Rita was a terrific and generous cook, and he is married to a woman, Jamie, who is a good cook as well. I don’t think he needs to learn to cook in self-defense, but I think it would be fun for him because cooking is such a pleasure and reaps so many rewards, especially when you cook for people you love. So I am encouraging him to learn to cook and am going to tag every recipe that would be good for a beginning cook “For Bill,” and when you see that tag, you will know what it means. This is the first one.

Even if you think you don’t like lima beans, try this. It goes with many things, and everyone loves it. If you make this once, I think you will make it again and again.

Maldon Salt is organic salt that is hand-harvested from the sea on the east coast of England. Instead of being in crystals, it is in beautiful flakes that you pick up and crush with your fingers over your food. I keep it in a small covered bowl on my counter because I use it all the time. I'm sure by now you've discovered Maldon, but if not, now is the time. 

This dish is excellent served with rigatoni topped with what I call Marcella's Miracle Sauce  - her justly famous tomato sauce made only with tomatoes, onion, and butter.  I usually serve them on the same large white dinner plate.  

Creamed Lima Beans

1 package frozen lima beans (Fordhook are best, but baby limas are okay too)
½ pint heavy cream
Salt for water
Maldon Salt to finish

Put the contents of the package of frozen lima beans into a 2-quart pot. Add as much water as you can, leaving room so the water doesn’t boil over. Salt the water lightly. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, and simmer until about the beans are three-quarters of the way done. Taste like you would spaghetti or green beans to check for doneness. Drain the water when there’s just a little resistance to the bite.

Put lima beans back in the pan and add the heavy cream. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cook at a steady simmer until the cream thickens into a sauce.

If you keep cooking, the cream will essentially “disappear” and coat the beans like butter. Don’t go this far. You really want them creamy. Add Maldon Sea Salt to taste by picking it up in your hand and crushing it a little as you sprinkle it on the beans.

An added bonus to this dish is that leftovers (if you have any) can be made into a delicious puree.

Just heat the leftovers in the microwave for one minute to loosen slightly. Then put into a food processor, and run while adding more cream until the puree reaches the desired consistency. Then put the puree into a bowl, and heat in the microwave. I assume if you put the puree through a tamis - or strainer - it would become silken rather than just smooth, but I have never done that.

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Lima Beans and Cream
Lima Beans with the Cream Thickening
Leftover Lima Beans in Cream Turned Into Puree


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